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Pro

– is lightweight

– is softer than cashmere

– retains warmth

– is breathable

– is flame resistant

– is hypoallergenic

– does not pill easily

– is biodegradable

– able to shed moisture and dries quickly

Cons

– is sensitive to moths

– is more delicate than cashmere

– easily damaged when dyed

– rather expensive

Advice

Vicuña fiber is a really rare material. If you really need this exact material, make sure the vicuña fiber you want to use is certified organic and is fairtrade. Work with suppliers that are transparent, ethical and adhere to the strictest animal welfare standards.

Vicuña

Vicuña is a natural protein fiber. Its wool fiber is obtained from the undercoat of the vicuña. In ancient times, vicuña fiber was known as the “Fiber of Gods”. It was such a prestigious fiber, only Incan royalty were permitted to wear it. The vicuña live in wild in the high Andes, about 4000 to 5000 meters above sea level in herds of up to 20 vicuña. The vicuña can be found in Peru, North Chile, Bolivia and Argentina.Traditionally the vicuña were shed in a respectful ceremony, of which are imbedded in legends and traditions. After said ceremony the vicuña were then re-released into the wild. Sadly, the vicuña have unfortunately been overhunted and are now classified as endangered and are therefore protected by the Peruvian and Bolivian governments. Presently, the only partner able to process and export vicuña textiles are the LVMH-owned Loro Piana.

The extreme density, silkiness and softness of their fur, which protects them from the cold temperatures, is very valuable. The length of a single vicuña hair averages between 20 and 50 mm and measures 10 – 20 micron and is therefore the finest animal fiber in the world. Their wool grows unusually slow and fine because they only sparsely find grass in the high altitude they reside at. The vicuña can only be shed every two years at a very low yield of 200 grams per animal, of which only half is spinnable.

Untreated vicuña fiber is completely compostable. Things like dye, toxic chemicals, blended fibers and trims can hinder compostability.

Sources

https://materialarchiv.ch/en/ma:material_436/?q=vicuña

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/42762040_Vicuna_Use_by_Andean_Communities_A_Risk_or_an_Opportunity

Textilepedia, Fashionary International Ltd, 2020